Sparky's Adventure

Today (13th August) we went for a walk around the lake away from Copacabana, towards Peru.

We started in the town centre after a late breakfast and took some nibbles with us for lunch.

As we walked along the beach we met one of the dogs that followed us yesterday. He trotted along beside us once again.

After a couple of kilometres Sparky, his new name, was still with us. We walked round to the end of the peninsula, scrambled up the cliff then along it until we came to the top footpath.

Sparky diligently followed us even though it seemed he hadn't been up on the top footpath before as he kept stopping and looking down at the lake then loyally running to catch up with us, weaving in between us, running ahead, then waiting for us to catch up.

When we stopped for lunch, Sparky laid down next to us and had a snooze, immediately getting up when we did. We found out he doesn't like Pringles, cheese biscuits or the local milk and sugar delicacy. However he does like lemon biscuits!

Sparky followed us for the whole walk, almost 3 hours, all the way back to our lodge.

Not sure what our lodge owners think but he seems to be minding his own business asleep on our hut's doorstep!

When we went out for dinner Sparky was nowhere to be seen. We walked along the lake to town keeping an eye out for Sparky but still no sign of him.

When we got back to our lodge, who was there to welcome us? It was Sparky!

He seemed extremely happy to see us, jumping up and rubbing his nose into our hand. Unfortunately one of the lodge staff thought Sparky was annoying us and chased him off the grounds :-(

Wonder if he'll be there in the morning?

The Llama & the Donkeys

Still feeling slightly under the weather with whatever bug I've caught we decided to have another leisurely day today.

Yesterday we walked half the length of the island, the full width and reached the highest point so there wasn't much left to explore anyway.

We took the long way round back to the port stopping anywhere that looked interesting.  Strangely the island seemed completely deserted.

As we approached the port we found out why. There were more than 50 islanders repairing the entrance steps and replanting the flower  beds.

We weaved our way down the steps feeling slightly guilty that we were obstructing them until we got to the beach.

On the beach we found a llama. A slightly odd sight to say the least as we had only seen them up in the mountains. But given "lake level" here is about 3800m perhaps it shouldn't have been quite such a surprise!

The llama seemed quite happy, munching on a pile of dried seaweed, then snoozing in the sun.

A little later I saw the llama standing in the lake and two donkeys eating the llama's food. The llama seemed quite put out and nervous of the donkeys.

Slowly, inch by inch, the llama edged forward until it was just out of the water then nonchalantly munched on the sand, slowly inching further and further forward.

About half an hour later the llama had moved a distance of just a few metres and was finally happily munching with the donkeys. However it seems a llama can only do so much munching and soon went back to sunning himself and snoozing.

By 5pm we were back in Copacabana. Whatever festival had been going on was over as all the stands had been packed up.

As we walked along the lake front back to our lodge two dogs decided to join us for the whole 2km!

They happily ran beside us, occasionally distracted by bits of rubbish or birds then running to join us again. If they got too far ahead they stood and waited. By the time we got to our lodge we had accumulated a third dog. Fortunately they didn't follow us to our room!

So once again a relaxing and beautiful day.

Off the Beaten Track

Today (11th August) we departed for Isla del Sol just off the coast of Copacabana.

At breakfast we asked for a taxi to the port but they didn't seem to ring one. When I confirmed a taxi was on its way we were told 10 mins. Low and behold 10 mins later a taxi arrived but it wasn't ours, it was for 2 of their other guests (who had been waiting for 40mins!). We were told to just get in and off we went with the other guests!

I had chosen, for some unknown reason, the furthest hostel from the port so on arrival off we set and followed our map in the Lonely Planet.

After an hour of walking and not finding our hostel we asked for some directions. We were pointed in the opposite direction to the map so thought the local was just being helpful (the guide book says locals will always try and be helpful and sometimes point in any direction just to appear knowledgeable) and pointing at the mountain with the same name as our hostel and not in the direction of the hostel as the map clearly showed the opposite way.

After another couple of hours of walking, having temporarily given up trying to find our hostel we stopped for lunch (we'd come prepared) overlooking the bay of Cha'lla. The scenery surrounding us was absolutely beautiful. Deep blue sea, green cliffs and snow capped mountains.

After lunch we decided to just retrace our footsteps back to the main town and consult a different map. It appears that the lonely planet had our hostel location on the wrong side of the island so no wonder we couldn't find it!

Tired from climbing up the 4060m hills (several times as the first time we did actually follow one of the locals' directions!) we settled in for the afternoon and relaxed overlooking one of the beautiful island bays.

Crossing the Border

We set off at 7am this morning to catch a bus across the the border to Bolivia.

The recommended bus company in the Lonely Planet had stopped doing this journey so we had to risk another random company. The bus was not quite as well kept as the previous buses we have travelled on but it was comfortable. The main annoyances were the loud, strange music played by the drivers for the whole journey and the toilet became out of order as soon as we entered Bolivia!

On the way we passed through several small towns with cattle markets and enjoyed the view of the lake from the top deck of the bus -  our seats were right at the front so we had a great view.

After a couple of random rest stops we arrived at the border. At first it was a little confusing. The driver shouted something about money exchange in Spanish. Most people got off the bus but we, along with a few others decided to wait and see what happened next.

Unfortunately this was the wrong choice and we got shooed off the bus late and "stamp" shouted at us.

On our second attempt we found the right building and got a stamp in our passports. Then we had to go next door and get another stamp (we tried the other way round which for some reason was clearly wrong).

Next we walked across the border slightly confused. We tried following others but they soon all dropped behind us so we marched on. Fortunately we led everyone to the right place and got a few more stamps before returning to the bus.

Around 30 mins later we got off the bus in Copacabana. The main delay was the odd manoeuvres the bus did. First driving up the wrong side of the street (he did this at the border crossing too!), then went down a side street. Reversed back up, with difficulty because it was up hill. Attempted a 3 point turn at a junction blocking all the roads. It was at this point a local decided to help out and guide the bus.

We went forward, this time the right way down the street then suddenly stopped and reversed the wrong way down the street. Eventually we parked outside the bus company's office and were able to get off.

Thinking we had had more than enough excitement for one day we went to get some cash. The queue slowly got smaller and smaller until we were at the front. Everyone infront had come out with slightly perplexed faces and no money. Unfortunately we hit the same problem - transaction refused and this was the only cash machine in Copacabana!

After a little investigation we found out that the cash machine only gives out money to people who speak Spanish. If you choose to do the transaction using English instructions it refused to work! With this information in hand we finally got some money and made our way to our lodge.

On arrival it seemed there was some confusion about our booking. We are staying over night then going to Isla del Sol for two nights before returning. Anyway, this seemed quite a complex arrangement and we somehow got upgraded to an apartment complete with two bedrooms, each ensuite, a kitchen/dining area and our own patio. Not bad for £32 per night!

Before dinner we went for a wander around Copacabana. Our lodge is 2km around the lake from the town centre. Since we have acclimated to the altitude (3800m) it was a lovely walk.

When we got close to Copacabana there was very much a party atmosphere. People were camping on the beach, letting off fire crackers off, having barbecues,  games machines, pedalos and trampolines. Cars and lorries were all decorated with little hats, fresh flowers and confetti. We think it's the remains of the celebration of Bolivian Independence Day from last week.

Further on in the town there were row upon row of hat shops selling quite stylish hats. If you like hats you could buy a year's supply at just £5 each!

When we had finished dinner people were still out and we were advised to take a taxi back instead of walking as the people would have been drinking and the road was unlit (we had come prepared with a torch!).

However getting a taxi wasn't easy. Most of the taxis were driverless. When one arrived we requested to be taken to our lodge but he refused and walked off (there was also a party going on in the main square which he seemed far more interested in). Finally another taxi arrived and we got back to our lodge safe and sound.