I woke up early this morning (5.50am) with light steaming into the bedroom even though all the blinds were closed.
I felt quite awake so decided to have a look outside and saw a beautiful pinky-golden light on the mountains from the sunrise. After a few more minutes I decided it was too cold to stay outside and that I was probably best getting back to sleep so we could stay up late in the hope of seeing the aurora tonight.
A few hours later we both woke up ready to start the day. After opening anniversary cards we set off to find a walk on the island we are staying on, Kvsløya. Part-way round the island we found a beautiful little beach in a fishing village and decided to brave the strong, freezing cold Arctic winds and go for a walk.
The first thing we saw were hundreds of fish hung out drying on a makeshift wooden rack with a little fishing boat at the end of a pier in urgent need of repair.
As we started our walk we were in awe at the beauty of the fjord. The water and sky were both brilliant blues set against the white, snow covered mountains only a stone's throw away.
The beach and grassy mound we walked along were littered with shells and sea urchins with spines still attached! It was so cold even some of the rock pools were frozen whilst little wading birds were scattered along the shore line.
Having walked round the small peninsula we found our way back around the top blocked by a fence and had to retrace our steps to get back the car.
We continued driving, stopping to eat our packed lunch and for any sights that took our fancy. There are handy, frequent laybys which seem to be there to let you just pull up and go off-piste skiing or hiking. Unfortunately without skis most of the area was impossible to hike in. Even the roads were lined with 2m high walls of snow and ice!
A little later we came across a glass art gallery. The owner and artist, Tove, showed us her workshop. Over the past 18 years she has built up her business, always earning enough to buy the next kiln rather than taking out a loan. Her biggest customers are the cruise ships which come every few days but she also maintains a well stocked shop on Kvsløya.
Many of her pieces were a really bright light blue, which I thought at the time were more artistic license than reality. Tove said she loves this time year because not only is there the aurora by night but in the evening everything is blue.
I didn't quite understand what she meant but when we continued on around the island with the road following the fjord I began to understand. The mountains and fjord were reflecting the brilliant light blue of the sky, making everything look vivid blue. I doubt any of the pictures I took will do it justice but none-the-less the the view was absolutely beautiful!
We got home just in time to change and go out for the surprise dinner I had booked in one of Tromsø's most highly regarded gourmet restaurants. It even hosted the King and Queen recently! On a weeknight they have a superbly priced (for Norway) and extremely delicious set menu. Although the dishes weren't something either of us would normally choose, each and every course was a pleasant and delicious surprise.
As Norway has strict drink-driving laws (even a small glass of wine is over the limit, with the risk of a very large fine or 4 weeks in jail for even minor offenses) only one of us could have any alcohol this evening.
By the time we got back to our cabin it was almost dark. Unfortunately there was also lots of fog descending over the mountains. No aurora tonight either :-(
Note: once again you'll find me (or at least a bit of me) in one of the photos - can you find me?
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